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January 2019

Travel

吳哥通王城 Angkor Thom (簡稱大吳哥)


寺的門口被護城河包圍,十分寧靜。The main entrance of the temple is protected by a river.

聖劍寺 (Preah Khan)

聖劍寺是建於12世紀主要廟宇,相傳是闍耶拔摩七世為紀念父親而修建,由於當時大吳哥城正進行在修建,他也曾暫居於此,在這裡朝拜和讀書。聖劍寺規模宏大,佔地甚廣,通往此廟有四條路,穿過一層層的石門,一旦踏進迷城便容易迷路。西門入口兩旁雕有乳海翻騰的景象,阿修羅與善神手執舍沙蛇神互相拉扯,寓意着生命起源與正邪力量爭相較量。東西兩邊,有一列長長的蓮花牆,上面凡佛像已被毀壞。寺內由中央塔開始,有一條狹長走廊,向各方伸延,拱門愈走愈小,每多走一步,便要彎腰更低,以示謙卑虔誠之心。是這樣,我一路走著,突然發覺我身邊的人群消失了,只剩下我。一路被精緻的浮雕包圍,走進小室,又到了另一個迴廊,我迷路了。時間和方向完全消失……

The Preah Khan temple was built by JayavarmanVII in the 12th century. The temple, dedicated to his father, occupies an extensive area and is composed of a few layers of enclosures. To tourists, it is a maze of vaulted corridors decorated with stone carvings where they would easily lose their ways inside the massive stonework.  Along a bridge near the Western entrance, the causeway is lined with stone with devas on one side and asuras on the other pulling a giant serpent Naga, symbolising the ever struggle of life between good and evil. There was a long narrow corridor in the middle tower of the temple. As each of the arch gets lower, every visitor have to bow their heads, an act of humility and respect. When I was walking along the corridor, I suddenly realised the crowds around me had disappeared. I went pass an arch and made a turn at the corner just to find myself standing under another arch, again surrounded by similar stone carvings. I was completely lost. It was as if I was lost in time and space…

時間、空間、歷史幻象交錯 In conversation with history, space and time.

拱門很少,要低著頭走過。The low arch is designed to ensure visitors to lower their head to show respect.

寺的中心點,它是否有點像正在發亮的蠟燭。At the centre of the temple, the sculpture is a reminiscent of a candle.


巴戎寺 (Bayon) 

巴戎寺是大吳哥的正中心,也是吳哥王城中最重要建築之一,建於12 世紀末,由國王闍耶拔摩七世為自己建造,是整個高綿藝術和建築最出色的代表作。現已剩下37座佛塔,塔上有四面佛,四個面分別代表慈、悲、喜、舍,亦是著名的「高綿的微笑」。四處迴廊的浮雕,故事內容十分豐富,上至宗教故事神話傳說,古代戰爭,由國王闍耶拔摩七世本人身騎大象,出征凱旋歸來;下至一般庶民色彩的生活題材,如水上生活,斗雞和下棋,生育,馬戰團等等。

Bayon is at the heart of Angkor Thom built in the 12th-century by Jayavarman VII. The temple is the masterpiece of Khmer architecture and art. There are 37 towers left in the temple decorated with the stone inscription. Inside there are four Buddhist faces, the famous carvings of the smiling gods. Other bas-reliefs on the wall revealed the colourful Khmer culture vividly. There are figures telling legends about the Gods, glory of the army, celebration of winning the war, as well as the everyday life of the peasants such as people playing chess, a cockfight and women selling fish in the market and so on.


仔細看這個藝術的寶庫,每一個佛像,仙女也對著你微笑,浮雕功奪天功。The aesthetic of the reliefs depicting Buddha and fairies are at the height of Angkor Empire. 

舉世聞名的「高綿的微笑」The world renowned ‘Smile of Angkor’ sculpture. 


女王宮 (Banteay Srei) 

意思即為「女人的皇宮」,建於967年,而於1002 年的闍耶拔摩七世時期完成,雖然規模較小,但被譽為柬埔寨三大廟宇之一,是吳哥古蹟中的寶石,展示出殿堂級高綿藝術的精華。寺院由紅色砂岩雕刻而成,展現女性宮殿的柔美,每一個門楣及牆上全以最精緻及複雜的浮雕覆蓋,整座建築散發著粉紅色的光芒,顯得迷人又耀眼,如進入仙境一樣。當中一個石刻仙女,被冠以「東方蒙娜麗莎」的美譽,粉嫩的肌膚,配以輕紗和金環,線條纖細可人,是女性美的典範,神秘而又美麗。

The modern meaning of the temple built in 927 is the “citadel of the women”. It was subject to further expansion and rebuilding work in the eleventh century by Jayavarman VII. The scale of the temple is relatively small when compared with other Angkorian construction, but it is one of the three most famous temples in Angkor Wat being known as the “jewel of Khmer art”. Banteay Srei is built largely of red sandstone, which highlights the feminine beauty with a pink light aura. The walls and arches of the temple are carved with delicate figures. One of the most famous carving is called the “The Eastern Mona Lisa”, a fairy that showcases the perfection of feminine beauty with slender figure, covering by transparent drapery that reveals the soft skin underneath and gold bracelets in her limbs, mysterious yet charming…


女王宮其中一個入口,一到埗已為整個建築物著迷。I was totally fascinated once arriving the entrance of the temple.



門楣上的浮雕是我見過最美及最精緻的。The most exquisite reliefs that I had ever seen in my life.

每一個角度也像一一個粉紅色的寶石。As stunning as ruby at every corner. 

從「東方天堂之窗」望著東方蒙娜麗莎。Admiring the most beautiful woman of the East through Eastern Gate of Heaven.


塔普倫寺 (Ta Prohm)

因荷里活電影《盜墓者羅拉 (Tomb Raider)〕》 在此取景而享負盛名,而王家衛的《花樣年華》也在此拍攝。離吳哥城東不遠,尊奉婆羅門教和佛教,當地人人稱為「小吳哥窟」。寺內長滿了幾百年的老樹,與建築物交纏。老樹破壞了建築物的原貌,但也支撐了它的結構,相生相滅。

The temple is famous since it was used as a location in Hollywood movie Tomb Raider, where Angelina Jolie stood on a giant tree root. Ta Prohm is located not very far from Angkor Thom, and honors the Buddhists and Vedism. The temple is an impressive display of the power of nature. Many strangulating roots have embroiled the entire complex and then grown out of the ruins. The plants have swallowed the relics while at the same time giving support to these ancient relics.

崩密列(Beng Mealea) 

崩密列在高棉語是「蓮花池」的意思,位於吳哥執以東約40公里外,是吳哥古蹟中最神秘、最偏遠的寺廟之一。寺廟是政府唯一保留原始崩塌面貌的建築,沒有按設計在原址重建,讓千年寺廟繼續在叢林之中酣睡。雖然它已是一個頹垣敗瓦的廢墟,處處都是斷壁殘垣,青苔樹蔓,但陽光隔著濃密的叢林,照射在滿是青苔的巨型石塊之上,卻有著別具風味的殘破寧靜之美,展現出建築物及自然的和諧共生的景象。據說宮崎駿的著名動畫《天空之城》,亦是以崩密列的廢墟作為構圖描繪出來的。

進寺內的過程,有點像 Indiana Jones 冒險電影的經驗,穿過古蹟中一條古道時,漆黑一片,伸手不見五指,然後才到達一座荒廢的宮殿花園。

One of the most mysterious and hidden temples at Angkor, which is located about 40km northeast of Siem Reap, and buried deep, deep inside the rampant jungle. It has been kept unrestored as the original state of how it was discovered. The site of messy ruins lying quietly in the woods give an eerie sense of beauty. Exploring the Beng Mealea temple is like going for an adventure in the “Indiana Jones” movies.


荒廢的古城,處處都是斷壁殘垣,青苔樹蔓,感覺落寞蒼涼。A hidden gem swallowed by the jungle. 



一片頹垣敗瓦,沒有曾經的輝煌,卻有另一種殘破寧靜之美。A timeless untamed beauty hides herself inside an idyllic jungle.